I have just returned from a fantastic trip to Vancouver and Alaska onboard the MS Roald Amundsen with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions. The whole experience was an epic adventure and way beyond what I expected. Seeing all kinds of wildlife in their natural habitat, it was truly breathtaking!
We flew with Air Canada direct to Vancouver and were met by HX’s expedition team who showed us to our transfer within minutes. We were then swiftly taken to the Delta by Marriott Downton in Vancouver where I was booked into a one bedroom suite with a living room area. We were literally a 5-10 minute walk away to the harbour front/Gastown quarter with stunning views. We had some free time to the enjoy the sights and to make the most out of the evening, then we got some rest.
In the morning after breakfast, we had a city tour included by coach, where we saw Chinatown, Stanley Park, Granville Island. It was all beautiful, and it this was enough to make me want to book and return to Vancouver.
After the tour was finished, the same coach then took us to the port where we were swiftly checked into our home for the next 12 nights onboard the MS Roald Amundsen. We were issued our own individual cruise card, which we used to check in/out of the ship for excursions.
Once onboard, we went to find our cabin. I was allocated a RR grade outside cabin, and it was huge! It had a large picture window, a huge bed with super soft bedding, mini bar (charged) and a lovely compact bathroom with a good size shower. The floors are also heated, which is not only cosy, but it also comes in super handy for drying out your clothes when you return from a zodiac trip or just the general Alaskan weather!
We were also given a water bottle (which was made from 100 recycled carrier bags) for refilling at freshwater stations situated around the ship. Then people have the choice to register a credit/debit card at reception for any onboard spends (i.e. spa, shop etc). Then everything will be charged to your cabin, and you just pay the bill 24 hours before disembarking. I didn't register a card, I just paid the night before and this was also fine.
You can download the HX app to view the schedule for activities taking place onboard, such as lectures and the timings of your excursions. This is important as you are divided into groups, by wildlife name.... ours was PUFFINS!
We sailed away this evening from Vancouver harbour with gorgeous sunshine and beautiful scenery.
Our dinner this evening was in the Aune, which is the expedition dining restaurant. This was a buffet as it was our first night and the choices were really good! Before you enter, every restaurant has sinks, with soap and moisturiser where they ask you to wash and dry your hands before entering, again to cut down on any viruses. This is a great idea, their priority is to keep everyone safe and well at all times.
We had the standard all-inclusive included with our grade cabin. It includes the spirits, lagers, wines, soft drinks, lattes, and hot chocolate.
If you were staying in a suite or above, you also get an upgraded all inclusive including speciality drinks and use of the speciality restaurant “Lindstrom” (which serves classic à la carte) and the laundry service, which trust me is worth it!! As due to the number of layers you pack, your luggage can be pretty hefty! So, with the laundry service and the diverse weather you can pack less!
If you wanted to treat yourself and experience the Lindstrom restaurant, this is only 15 euros per person for breakfast and 35 euros per person for dinner. We ate in the one time and it was incredible.
Breakfast was served in the Aune and it was a buffet style which was amazing. Everything from an egg station to fresh salmon, the usual fare of bacon, fresh fruits and fresh breads. There were individual glass pots of butter and jam avoid using of plastics, showing how committed HX Hurtigruten Expeditions is to the environment!
Then it was time to collect our boots for our zodiac adventures down on deck 3 in the tender pit. Life jackets were in your cabin ready. This is where with our excursions and exploration began!
Misty Fjords Small Boat Cruising
Today was our first day out on the zodiac boats. We were all suited and booted with our lifejackets and waterproof gear. The weather was perfect for this destination, exactly what it says in the name. Steve from HX’s team took us out and we got up close to waterfalls.
Island Heritage Discovery
Today we stopped at Wrangell. We were met by tender and taken to the shore. This was a cute little town where we went to see the Chief Stakes Tribal House and learn about the history of Wrangell's first nation - The Lingit. We saw totem poles, beautiful scenery, wild eagles and there were some cute little shops to wonder around as well. We then were taken to explore the historical Petroglyph Beach site. You can comb the beach looking for these ancient symbols in the rocks.
Chatham Strait Small Boat Cruising
Today we were first out on the zodiacs, which was exciting as the wildlife would not have previously been disturbed by any movement in the area. The fjord was beautiful, and all the trees with eagles flying around just incredible. Mackenzie, our HX Guide, advised this is the clearest she has ever seen this fjord, as we could see to the bottom, where we saw lots of sea stars (not star fish as we all originally thought). The size and the colours of them were really surprising and beautiful.
We saw two harbour seals, but we do not get too close as it being pup season, they need their space (it’s great to see how HX respects the wildlife!). I saw a mink swimming across the fjord, I never realised how small these little creatures were. Mackenzie was fabulous at pointing all the wildlife out.
Science Boat & Tracy Arm Small Boat Cruising
This morning, we were really lucky and our team “The Puffins” went out with the Holly on the science boat. We collected data and water samples to keep a check on the local area's conditions. We could all later view them under the microscope to see what was collected. What the naked eye can't see is very interesting, trust me!
Fort Seward Town Package
We visited Haines today, another quaint pretty little town. The scenery is so beautiful it is just like a postcard everywhere.
We couldn't get on the ship’s organised excursion today, as it was fully booked (it’s always best to book the excursions in advance!). Instead, we found a local tour and we went out on a minibus to various parts of the area. We saw a family of six mountain goats perched high of the cliff, one being a smaller baby! They were preparing for the salmon coming down from the north and getting ready for the bears. We also saw an eagle's nest, with one of the parents protecting their eggs. It was an amazing sight and a special thing to see. My other travel companion saw bears for the first time today at a distance, this was an unexpected moment.
In the evening, the captain made a special announcement over the Tanoy at 22.30pm about some wildlife to observe. I quickly put on some clothes and rushed up to the viewing area on deck 7 and I saw a moose! Unfortunately, I have no photo to prove it as it was dark and raining. But I did see a moose move across the beach to the river! A very exciting moment.
William Henry Bay
This was our first landing day within this cruise, where we literally stepped out of the boat, into the water, and then onto the land. We were in perfect bear country, however we still saw no bears!
However, they are present! We saw proof in the tree scrapings where they are marking their territory and seeing their fur! and yes, we saw poop which is very important for scientific studies for the HX team. We saw a pretty squirrel, where he was nervous at first but then became quite comfortable with eating his food in front of us. All kinds of fauna exist here, and they all have their purpose! We also did see evidence of wolves’ presence.
Holly from the HX Team pointed out the tracks of the moose I saw on the beach from the previous night.
Sitka
This is a very pretty town, lots of little bespoke shops and restaurants. We were so lucky with the weather as well, we had coffee sat in the sunshine with the snowcapped mountains behind us.
Today at 12.25pm, we attended our excursion called “Sea Otter & Wildlife Quest”, which is like a safari at sea. We cruised out on our smaller boat, camera and binoculars in hand, eyes peeled at the ocean, and it did not disappoint. We were greeted by three grey whales, with one that literally swam underneath our boat, and this was a first for the crew as well, the excitement on the boat was electrifying. It was so close, we saw the barnacles on its back and smelt its breath!
We could not leave the bay as we were surrounded by three grey whales, and we did not want to disturb or frighten them. When it was safe to leave, the engines were turned on again (they turn them off for the animals out of respect!) and we left the bay. This trip was amazing we saw a bevy of otters, playful, cute little creatures, not a care in the world, just bopping about, sea lions, eagles.
My other travel companions saw humpback whales as well! This is one of the many reasons you should visit Alaska, to see whales and the flukes in their natural habitat!
There are so many words to describe this moment, it was just magical!
Cordova
On arrival by tender we were met by otters who were very relaxed and not bothered about the boats at all.
This is a working town, with lots of fishing boats and very sleepy especially on a Sunday. We had a little wonder around, surrounded by snowcapped mountains. We sat in a small bar/restaurant and I tasted a spruce pine soft drink (it tasted very sweet), which I’m not sure if I would drink that again! We took in the scenery and just had a very chilled wonder through the small town before making our way back to the ship.
College Fjord
I opened my curtains in my cabin this morning to find Glaciers framing my window. There were icebergs everywhere! Chris, our HX guide for the day, took us out on the zodiacs, navigating the boats safely through icy waters whilst telling us about the huge glacier in front of us.
This glacier is 30,000 years old and with the engines turned off we could hear the crackling of this glacier, then we were lucky enough to see an ice calving where it breaks away from the edge of the glacier and falls into the icy waters. I didn't want to leave here; it is very peaceful and surprisingly not that cold! The colours of the ice are all kinds of shades of blue; it is just so pretty. We saw eagles again soaring above the glacier and sealions resting on blocks of ice.
Today was the day we saw two black bears, walking across a small beach (they are out far in the distance) but this was another one of those unique moments. They were there for about 3 minutes or so before disappearing.
Icy Bay
We were not sure if this trip was going to go ahead due to the bad weather. However, the Captain decided it was safe enough to leave on the zodiacs. We were in the Wrangell National Park, this was the worse weather out on a zodiac so far!
The HX team, as always, safely took care of everything. We saw another sealion swimming in the ocean, bear footprints in the sand on the shoreline. It is just so peaceful and despite the weather still stunning. Once back on the ship, we were straight to the hot tub on deck 10 and then quickly followed by the sauna to defrost.
The Last Evening
The night before we disembark all the luggage is needed to packed and ready outside by the main lifts by 9pm, so the HX team can take them all down to the pit ready for them to take off the following morning. This provides a smooth service for departing.
It was also time to have our farewell get together in “The Explorer” lounge for the evening, where the ships photographer put together a touching sideshow of our 12 day adventure. It was quite moving and I felt very proud to have been involved in this, it's great to know that HX will email every guest a copy of this once they were home.
Then the captain, the chief engineer, and all the wonderful HX guides took to the centre of the Explorer lounge and bid us goodbye and a safe journey home. It was then that the restaurant staff, cabin stewards, boiler room staff and all of the HX team walked around the lounge with rounds of applause for all of us guests and thanked them for all their service, it was such a nice touch. Everyone gets recognised! They really are a large family and everyone is appreciated.
The HX staff put together a staff band for every send off from all various staff members! Now, they do admit they are not professional singers, they know that! but they are giving it a go singing, playing instruments, but they have fun and make everyone feel utterly welcome and comfortable. It was a brilliant end to a fantastic cruise.
The next morning, we said our goodbyes, disembarked and began our very long journey home starting from the port at Seward to Anchorage airport. I must say this has got to be one of the prettiest transfers I have ever experienced.
We had a few hours in Anchorage to explore and then it was time to return back to normal life.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT AN EXPERIENCE ONBOARD A HX HURTIGRUTEN EXPEDITION CRUISE
1.) Being sustainable – this commitment is incredibly important to them!
2.) Leave your green cabin door sign out on your door handle to advise the cabin stewards that you do not need your cabin cleaned this day! they will donate 0.50 euros to the HX foundation which supports all the countries the visit in various ways.
3.) Washing your hands before entering restaurants is a MUST. I personally think this is a great idea; they are keeping the whole ship safe! Everyone wants to enjoy and feel well on their holiday, don't they?
4.) Use the sustainable water bottle – keep yourself hydrated onboard.
TOP TIPS
Tip 1.) Make sure you PRE-BOOK your excursions before you depart the UK or when you get on board within the first evening, do not assume you will get on the trip by waiting!
Tip 2.) Buy decent waterproof trousers & gloves (I learnt this the hard way 🙂).
Tip 3.) Download the HX app (so, your all ready when you board to start your adventure immediately).
Tip 4.) Be patient, this is wildlife! If you are lucky enough to see everything you want, then that's great, but do not be disappointed if you do not! Take in the wonder of where you are!
Tip 5.) Bring good walking shoes with a good surface grip and some binoculars.
Tip 6.) It's warm on the ship, so take layers so you can remove items!
Tip 7.) The clocks change again as you go north, remember to change your watch or phone’s time otherwise you’ll also arrive at breakfast at 6.30am!
In Summary
If you love wildlife, the outdoors, learning and eating great food and being part of a large extended family all working together, then then this experience is for you! You will not be disappointed. It is literally like a safari at sea! There have been so many fantastic moments, this blog only begins to describe how I feel and how this wonderful adventure was!
I want to send much thanks to my wonderful, kindest host Megan and all of the HX Hurtigruten Expedition team for these forever memories which are priceless! I will treasure them forever!
