I had the opportunity to experience a taste of Norway’s unique coast in winter time, on board the famous Hurtigruten ship Kong Harald – and was lucky enough to experience the Northern Lights too.
After flying to Tromso via Oslo, we were met by the transfer team and swiftly arrived at the quayside hotel Rica Ishavshotel, to have dinner and await the arrival of our vessel – what a surprise when it pulled up at around 9pm, right outside the hotel! The Hurtigruten fleet is the lifeline for many Norwegians, especially those in remote communities, who await the ships’ arrival bringing them their post and other goods as for many who live in the tiny fjords, there is no other form of accessible transport. Tromso is known as the gateway to the Arctic, and is easy to get around, even walking across the Tromsobrua bridge to the famous Arctic cathedral is not far. While in Tromso, I would recommend pre-booking a ticket to see the midnight concert in the cathedral – incredible acoustics and candlelit. Another experience I enjoyed was the Polar History Walk as this city was the starting point for many explorers.
But the most memorable excursion by far for me was the Wilderness centre here. This is where you don your winter survival gear and thick boots, and meet the huskies for a sledge ride on the frozen landscape. Even in summer you can go to see the huskies and their puppies that live there. We had dinner here in a traditional “lavu” or roundhouse with a central fire, and we eagerly awaited the Northern Lights.
Right on time around 9pm, the lights appeared as green and yellow wavy ribbons in the sky and our hosts tempted us away from the log fire and the hot chocolate and we all competed to get the best shot of the phenomena. Its actually quite difficult to get a good photo of the Aurora unless you have a more professional type camera with a slow shutter speed, so I had to resort to taking a picture of the postcard I bought of the Northern Lights instead!
Crossing the Arctic circle is marked with a certificate for all guests on board as well as the “King" of the sea dousing you with icewater as part of a traditional ceremony at Trollfjord - chilly but fun. Sailing through the open sea up towards the Lofoten islands can be choppy but generally, as the ships hug the coastline, sailing is smooth even in the winter months. Our final point in the itinerary is Kirkenes, a remote border town, next to Russia, with an “edge of the world” feel – and this is where you will find the Snow hotel from December till late April. We also experienced the King crab safari – monsters of the deep but very tasty, as they will be prepared and cooked for you at the end of the excursion. Highlight port for my return journey was Trondheim – an ancient city, with the famous Nidaros cathedral and lovely views from the old town bridge, easy to wander round yourself or take a highlights tour with a guide.
Life on board is casual and comfortable, with cabins functional but warm and cosy in the winter with all the facilities you might require, even a hairdryer. Food was top quality, with fish and seafood being the best, literally fresh from the sea. Although the menu is set, if you prefer something else, then let the head waiter know and an alternative will be arranged for you. Drinks can be expensive in Norway in general, so if you like a bottle of wine with dinner I would advise taking the drinks package that Hurtigruten can offer. There is a tea and coffee shop, and a bar area & newsagent style shop for any small goods you may have forgotten. Make sure you visit the Hurtigruten museum at Stokmarknes, which explains the history of the line and its significance to the Norwegian economy and people.
Travel Blog by Margaret Moulton
Phone Margaret: 01749 671660
Email Margaret: margaret.moulton@milesmorgantravel.co.uk
Visit Margaret: 18 High Street, Wells, Somerset, BA5 2SG
